Maxim USA – May 2016
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Dictator of decorum
On my morning ‘Commute. noticed the
steady proliferation of men with totes:
printed. and in some eases
clearly high-end. I like having an option beyond
the briefcase and the perhaps too-
juvenile backpack. but is a tote for me?
I’m mostly over the briefcase thing. esw•pt
When I want to lock something up: then I pull
out my trusty. nicely stained and abraded
•r. Anthony monogrammed leather hard
with dual combination locks. I figure I look like
a successful lawyer or a high—end drug dealer.
For most urban schleppingjobs. though. I like
a tote. and they come in three types. are
the keepers. the semi-disposables and the dis-
posahles. •l’he keeper eategory essentially
introduced in the 1950s the flight bag. Zip-
pc•rcd tough pl&Stic a shoulder Strap. it
a stewardess standard issue that became
jet-set trendy. Bags from international airlines
like Pan Am and TWA were particularly desir-
able. and thcv command Stw•p prices today in
upscale thrift shops. These days luxury compa-
nies make them, usually out Of
vas. and sometimes they come With plxstic
lining (wry good for grocery and wine trans-
port). You can buy them without emblems
or With discreetly sized Status logos. • l’hey
even be art. I have a tote from C.oach
IQ-aturing an abstract painting James N arcs.
a couple from Damien Hirst’s company. Other
Criteria. his famous butterfly motif.
and a Warhol bag from a Munich tilm festi•.al.
Speaking of Warhol. my old boss’s tote
Of choice was a plastic shopping
bag from 7,abarV.New hiyrkV famous nosh
emporium. Very sly but unpretentious.
many Stores Offer simple. unstructured eanvas
totes. •rhe Strand bookstore is famous tor
theirs. You can take it and look smart
with that red oval logo that says MILES OF
BOOKS. SEW YORK c:rry.
I haw one shot (hello post-grad bank account)
to buy suit. kind will the most
bang for my buck?
If I could have suit. there’s no doubt it
be dark and singlebreasted. If I
could only the second would be navy.
Either Will get through most of the sc:rious
occasions where suit is necessary. or at least
advisable or desirable. Gray beats out navy for
funerals and court dates. I think is a prefer-
able alternatiw ro rhe black suit. once rhe uni-
form of mourning, it’ less harsh and
looks lwtter in daylight For the singwsuit
wardrobe. forget stripes and plaids or fabrics
With much texture. sleek gray suit
be altered fi»r any occasion with rhe right acx•cs•
sorics—what worked at the el icnt mccting in the
morning can work for a dinner date later with
a simple change ofshirt.
My girlfriend Mears my oxfords more often
than I do. and on a Oec.Lsions has even
Maxim USA – May 2016
snagged the ones I want to wear before I haw
a to get Is there any gentle Way
for me to tell her to back
No: you’ll win. should probably find
girl With smaller But ifit gets on
your nemes and you need to make a point. you
might try borrowing a pair Of her high heels
and see how she likes it. (If she does. all the
more reason to get rid of her.)
I’vc• been wearing ttw• same tortoiseshell gla.+-
the past 10 and finally feel ready
a new frame. A friends have suggested the
clear acetate popular with the gallery
ilk hut Morried about looking like an extra
from a millennial dramedy. How do you
ah •ut clear frames.:
I hope those “‘event real rorroisesheli. Many
chelonian species arc now cxtinerion duc
to this unfortunate use oftheir carapaces. Clear
frames are great on certain faces. I think rhcy
particularly suit those With blond. or White
hair, because they don’t dominate y yur features.
Sinec I started lightening up top. haw had
muny clear frames. Maybe it the Warhol
influence again. Clear frames. sometimes with a
pinkish east. hi; in the fifties. When they
were the cheapest generic frame available. l’he•y
were sometimes away as a With the
price of the prescription lenses. but I remember
they were hard to get for many and wc had
to scour opticians in poor Old neighborhoods
looking for them. My fluorite was the Selecta
France frame, Which can still find from time
to time on eBay. I get mine from Eye-
Which has clear frame nuKlels
including rhe -l)ot Com- and “TV Party:
inspired by yours truly. that comes with black
temples. Both ate sold ar rhcgrcar pricx of $79.
average guy, and after seeing u few jumpsuits I
liked. decided I need to own one. I just
earli decide whether to go the Diekies route or
pick up ofthc luxe on the
runway. What are your thoughts?
Ultimately iris a of taste. Some guys Will
able to pull it pun intended) and some
I do think it•san easier look than cneralls.
Maybe should check the and test-pilot
the 100k With the Dickies before going for Dior.
as the price ratio is probably 20 to Jumpsuit tit
is a bit complex. since the adult onesic musteon-
rain all ofvou. soeheck the ball room before buv.
ing—and Yiu might Want to conduct bathroom
visit during your tryon to make sure ybu dotft
mind the extra work involved in using the
pants haw staged a very real
comeback into men’ wardrobes. It’s not a sil-
houette I feel super eomfortable with but I’m
Open to trying something new. ever
be ready for llammcrtime?
No way. still getting over the realization
that my eighties pat Riley suits With the
plcars and NFL shoulders probably be
wearable again during my I ifctime.
What happened to heroin eh
thcn• never really was such a thing. unless
you’re talking the Rolling Stones’ on
Main St. I fashion heroin-chic thing Was basi-
eally the imention or a few fashion reporters
who noticed -grunge- Fashion grunge had
nothing to do With bands from Portland and
Seattle. It was about certain fashion plu•togra-
pliers. stylists and models Who v,ere bored With
whole supermodel “l don’t get out of bcd tor
less than a day” scene. l)-avid Sims.
Mario Sorrenti. Glen l.uchfotd and especially
the late gnat Corinne Day brought in a new
kind off-enl ism where it looked like kids Without
too much money were having fun and throwing
their cigarette butts on the tioor. So-called
in chic had to do With the models being
skinny or shorter than usual or having big
nose. I remember Whcn Some Calvin Klein ads
were derided as -heroin eh ‘[lie worst offend-
spot my friend Who
not onl\ ne,er took heroin. bur also ‘W,’er
smoked pot or cigarettes or drank :lleohol or
ewn coffee. Ynnie mo’,ed to where he
makes movies and mtLsie.
What ever happened to heroin?
Apparently it mo\ed to New I lampshirc.
GLENN O’BRIEN JEAN-PHILIPPE DELHOMME
Send questionsfor M(evimus ro
MAY 2016 STYI.F„
Meet the denim masterminds giving
vintage Levik a modern upgrade
Try on pair of authentic. straight-from-the
vintage Levi’s and you’ll under-
stand whv srvlish men newr actuallv wear
them: fit isn•t right. the
and rhe sizing doesn’t make much sense. But
the denim itself—worn-in and flawlessly fad-
ed—is close to as jeans get.
“Illat rxalizarion is wharlead fashion indus•
try veterans Sean Barron and Jamie Mazur to
start the I..A,-ba.sed eompany that
turns vintage I into modern-day designer
denim. • I ‘he line. which launched With women’s
jeans in 2014. has sinec expanded into two
soles men—a -relaxed tapered – eut and a
-slim straight- design. Both soles are available
in black or blue. but each pair his a complctcly
unique identity. “A lot ofbrands do washes and
sand ing ro makejeans appear old. and
looks fake compared to a jean that someone
really More GM’ years. – says Mazur. w rhe idea is
to start with a jean tharÄ already bmken-inand
make it ht the Wav wc Want it
Manr and Barron buy mass quantities Of
from rag houses. thcn pass the jeans off
to Re/l factory. Where each pai r is sorted
by hand. •We’ll get ten thousand of them at
says Mazur. look at a jean and
ourselves: •DO like the eolor? DO We like the
fade and where the holes Would vou want
to wear this jeanV If the is yes, the
pants live to see another day.
design duo tinkered for months on the
consistency Of the cuts. As it turns out. trying
ro create uniform sizing across an unimagina-
ble spectrum of soles is a painstaking process.
but one that pays dividends: Mazur and
Barron sold all 250 mtirs they had in stock on
the dav of their launch. wars the de
mand for Re/ I jone denim hasn•t slowed.
It helps that Mazur’s supermodel girlfriend,
Alessandra Ambrosio. stars in the
eampxign.s, along with It-girls Elsa Ilosk.
Ruby Aldridge and Hadid.
Supermodels aside. the jeans seem to be
selling themsehvs. On the IMund e-commerce
site, shoprcdonc•.eom. Siles are
completely sold out—and Mazur plans on
keeping it that Way, selling to more
brick—and-mortar Stores now. but feel like
less distribution is berrcr.- he “We really
want to keep it exclusive’ Better add your
name to rhe wait list.
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